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意大利、英国和美国的西装到底哪个值得买?

fb312093d426177de069c99580ce0832

记得《浴血黑帮》里复仇者Luca曾去Tommy的办公室戏谑了他的西服QDVhZTA5MmM4MzBhNTU=,他说:“你的西服没我的好82fd08afdc9c86127d91e0e06a451d65ba87f60c。”dfda18a3fa9441934a97a67744ea6052f547c9f0

7094db9758605aaaa5788ca1ab76392f

d6f970358e9351cdd57cc4aec344fb304f283f53

IzVhZTA5MmM4MjRiOGQ=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdiZy9qLmi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdiZ6xpb2i

然后Luca补充了一句ef9558d17ea2bcf4c17dba6d7b081646,他说:“我的西服是意大利人做的MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtm5-w28ei。”a1336e8ba754b11e9a157663452eef9e

825ee49eff8b7dc786969b7e4e2d20b4

就像咖啡分美式和意式42db3123f25e57caff3b796254c16ff9,不同国家的西装也有所不同b493784ded5d022061642b8dc7c1f99d。比方说MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGteZ6xqLGi,《王牌特工》里的英式西装风格就和《大空头》里的华尔街西装很不相同JTVhZTA5MmM4MzgyNTg=MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdjKuxtami

f15188cea484602d9c36b85d8f7997c8

MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QftKDps7djbCZqrKHiKqyoqGi

IzVhZTA5MmM4MjU2N2I=

JDVhZTA5MmM4MjU4MDQ=

(《王牌特工》)ITVhZTA5MmM4MjU5NjQ=

3049285c94e9035f5a313b1295b3f314

03d59af3d86214c133e6a458ec278119

ITVhZTA5MmM4MjVkODk=

(《大空头》)XjVhZTA5MmM4MjVlZTA=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdjaCwzrGi

有互联网公司的朋友跟本格说5d3b81e27f676392d983e46bca12818b,每到年底MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGteaC9y8ei,中关村购物中心的各个西装品牌专卖店就会挤满码农6cd95df533d5b8f7b580a3ad65a40e95d1f9eb48,因为好多公司年会要求穿正装MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtfKyxk7mi,而码农你懂的d45b4908605ab2f19dd4f13ca17231525c6a94b2,这往往是他们的第一套西装QDVhZTA5MmM4MzgzYzc=。这时候某浪和某度的程序员就会交流一下年终奖8463dbc8f1d59810cc1611437c01c8f2,顺便一起吐槽某新独角兽公司年会要求穿校服是没底蕴没文化MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtnmOwtc-iXjVhZTA5MmM4MjYxOGE=

ITVhZTA5MmM4MjYyZWM=

一些年终奖比较高的就会咨询本格IzVhZTA5MmM4MzE3ZjQ=,到底是买英国品牌西装还是买意大利的72fad0b8550a054769f6e63fdca4e0e271dd5aae,或者是买美国的ff9bca147427e9db40d7ef6d2812f84c0dd8d16c。今天MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtfGi8k7mi,本格就跟大家讲一下这几个国家西装的区别b461a23670a3b3fc8875f1f9d1d9d271476a5148KjVhZTA5MmM4MjY0NGQ=

77f16f0fbe6dd2d667f94b19e68d9ab747c9ada3

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdkGWwpcei

英国:d5684ae061959b64cfe1fe73eddaa1b084d12e2d

df3ddf3755c31de7609432561e3d7403

18世纪伦敦萨维尔街的裁缝发明了一种被叫做Smocking Jacket的男士西装fdb153fb1d39a879c87a0b4ab2ef40d4a0badc79,之后成为英国贵族和上流社会晚餐时的正式着装2c35eb5634edcbedc8608d3729d29ba6bee6e688,也就是现代西装的原型dcadd20d348fb90a471a875a392c0aea2dad0eef。所以JTVhZTA5MmM4MzFmMzY=,要论血统MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtfaCypcei,英国的西装最纯正04a53f47d6833dbe4f068b9a75fd9150b324abb0343440c3a6116862f417f79d2c1cf997

77ef3cf4186891b4cda919b5a67dae70

1bc3ecb9cc0ee4246983ef7b61df12a3

QDVhZTA5MmM4MjZmN2U=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdkaC8k62i

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdmquwy6mi

英国西装最大的特点是宽肩细腰1a7aa4e28eab1e74d074aa07b17854a2,面料较厚b6e3816e045cd158bbcf1076b2c484874300ec8e,穿起来是倒三角形2bdd937dddd3b250d86431969e53b2e79cd06f5b4b21ce7aab04d87e47fa8d6868101ae11ba03261

MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QftKDps7djbCZqrKthZ6yoqGi

从萨维尔街的定制西装发展而来MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QftKDps7djbCZq7GdhZ69sqGi,英式西装代表品牌强调合身5c5173c6ad0775966f1c458dc5ccf149,肩膀平直aef6ec627f380d18fbda78faef55fc4e075279eb,形很硬dcb974ec3706afce39ddc92049ed196d0a5cf9d9488fb2c9e5840ac79b73eff374c175b6370ba8b9

a57879a563dfca55967b132aa80de57fc895514a

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdmma9tc-i

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdmmixqL2i

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdm5u8y62i

(英国西装品牌Huntsman的双排扣西装)MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdm52wqKmi

b8faa0eeeb6babd03e91cb1b6b2c327e1d8f68dc

而且英国西装的胸垫很厚838e946e1def852fbedd73451026faa7de6b209e,穿起来会显得比较魁梧、挺拔IzVhZTA5MmM4MzhmMzk=。其实就是多年前英国人发明的假胸肌MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtgGiyta2i,大概就是下图白色的部分QDVhZTA5MmM4MzkwYjE=5babbcaf176bece7ac9752aa6da277b6b13eb2cd

9f925e479a8dfef53c6fe2be566cc07da706f8e5

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdnquypami

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdnqy9tbGi

JTVhZTA5MmM4Mjg1NjA=

2f03d2bf6081f11e3b31e26f62002d3c

与此同时3278e666504d9a2ae2aa868d9b3d8e4d,英国西装的腰部又收紧JDVhZTA5MmM4MzkyMWI=这种型的西装对穿着者的身材要求很高MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QftKDps7djbCZq7GghGex2KGi,一定是要肩宽腰细2667e2220ad4b375aa6b3822e6eca31f,即便是抖森这种身材穿不合身都会肩膀架了个衣架86e3a43dad318ed44c2ec83031060c1baf0c912fMDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdnmaw28ui

JDVhZTA5MmM4Mjg5YTk=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdnmi9y72i

ce6f32ea25f2056c515baed3ad2e9df6

f34ce4cb51112557c19a2ad1dac940906360933e

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdn5-w28ei

此外3845df4487f81432e4ac2d07d17aa259b8ef4442,英国西装驳头比较低41bfe66fb83d66f269c1e260dfe78f4e1ccb1c47,简单说d4c226b69538f33fd9c566ecf8a62144,就是领子上那个三角形缺口MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGthK28zrGi,位置比较靠下145152b0fc5a7dc7711c09afc19f95903e64ea9d。意大利西装的驳头比较高JjVhZTA5MmM4MzM2NTU=,那个小三角缺口有时候都快到肩膀的高度了cff2019cedc9a5ebcf65284836de2eecda38764cef9a5336b3191aa996a4c98c5afd726119a2c572

5d50abaa22508bb3e6d4594439dc3a5a

45d7b165161491a3174fdce0fbf1ff410af8994f

f011deb453b626cd641f01375e0ef6c2

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdomSxta2i

英国西装通常在侧面还会有一个票兜a1689cb9d1c1ee929f36112bf603526f,背部通常为双开衩c9831e7642ee2fd40810b04c9b1cd36d8c8149ac,就像一个小“屁帘”;美式西装为单开衩f92783c0c30fd32acc0b8a3c71e08c200b97ed3b,过去意大利西装通常不开衩QDVhZTA5MmM4MzNjMDY=,但近些年大多数和英国西装一样使用双开衩JDVhZTA5MmM4Mzk3ZGI=MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdomW9y7Wi

787c9fc7463571ea8a161664e8bafb630ed5c61a

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdo5uwpbGi

73125763232264e844ecd8eed2414d8c

KjVhZTA5MmM4MjllMjE=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbGdo5-x272i

英式西裤也很有特点MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbGthZ2xtcui,通常都是高腰设计8f3e1c8774c2b41c26b9e2d1a091da22,且有两个省MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtomewzrWi。这个字应该读作ShǎngJDVhZTA5MmM4MzQwN2E=,就是西裤裤线上部的褶皱MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtomi8ta2iNWFlMDkyYzgyYTEyYg==

NWFlMDkyYzgyYTJiMQ==

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGgfK2wpcei

751f47e67483d72a1df468a39b01f4ff32cfd1b0

ed0cb0fb0e337185dd9f593422e9715e9533a8c7

由于英国天气寒冷XjVhZTA5MmM4MzQxZTc=,英国西装材质较厚KjVhZTA5MmM4MzQzNTI=,花呢和鱼骨纹都是常用的材料MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtiK28tbGi,当然还有威尔士亲王格69444f7a853db65b470d2a986f58f256e22e84caXjVhZTA5MmM4MmE4ZDQ=

ed7337479fc45a82d7d55e7f45164789

0d4e2d247edf0ee2df1eef6e6678784e

QDVhZTA5MmM4MmFkNTA=

60b20699d51c22de9d99d061cade6c071c7e844d

QDVhZTA5MmM4MmIwNGM=

虽然英国的西装最经典MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtiGSwqKmi,但不意味着最好看MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGto52ypami。再加上英国西装品牌有些已经被意大利或香港的集团收购412f0b53644497e23c28712188c369b7,或者把产地搬到了意大利XjVhZTA5MmM4MzQ5MWU=,所以想买到原汁原味的纯正英式西装很难a03062fcf2f68a74935a85a2b94c71b79331e51d8ee86436375e91e55a1ce61e1b109502

e3d030448c991cb2598ab724e7ec0d63

ITVhZTA5MmM4MmI0ZDM=

cbe21dc5444da034739a6ba26705917577ddfb21

8651717acc93b9be264889dacf7413ef

意大利:b39d8db7368724edf9f678f897617abc

43f75acde4a4f9d86036bcaf336ae004

意大利西装最大的特点是轻薄KjVhZTA5MmM4MzRhODY=,也很修身61e0bbf6f629da19de6a71b0b4a5bf5d0078f001。由于意大利天气炎热MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtiZu9pcui,意大利西装不像英国西装那样硬挺cedc1fbddfe33641379e660f96423079a42402a0,材料也很轻薄QDVhZTA5MmM4M2ExZTk=。尤其意式西装的肩垫相对较圆和自然13a00b5e2055503e7cbe366f9e88a89825ab6fb6XjVhZTA5MmM4MmJjN2I=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbGggZ29pa2i

723cf0887a72cb8e1a02c468f7eb1ab7f71672be

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGggaC9pbmi

ITVhZTA5MmM4MmMyOGY=

(意大利顶级西装品牌Brioni)MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGghKy9tb2i

14a234dc0386429bec8ac4ce3e3eefe3

和英式西装不同JjVhZTA5MmM4MzRlYzI=,意大利西装用双排扣的少d329646d0fe99d1b0bd5ddfc8f25652a,大多使用单排扣JjVhZTA5MmM4MzUxYmE=,驳头也很高MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbFlfK28tbWi。意式西装的口袋也很有意思NWFlMDkyYzgzNTMzYg==,通常没有袋盖6c6e3f68db725057222c6b38d14bf255,所以看起来会跟更简洁MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbFlfGSwqLGiMDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QftKDps7djbCZqr2tkKqysqGi

cb3d3a669bc62dae149d65b128321ea7d213a605

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGghGiwuLWi

bb85e3c13d2ec96dfb4d78d737666515

JDVhZTA5MmM4MmNkMmY=

西裤的差异也很大IzVhZTA5MmM4MzU2MTk=,意大利式西裤偏低腰紧臀设计MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtjGWxk7mi,不如英国和美国的宽松舒适NWFlMDkyYzgzYTdhYw==263829928dba67c3755832947067b554

48f9512e65c1e871967c474663eab6ab

3a8981fe9b7f6ae6f36d4634e6ba3bb42026fd21

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b7a3d180ab02b616f9740da9e89d84c611faf882

978064bb511d5992440be2a199d5b21135347046

总的来说a65d7ec74d0b33fbb42f7a47b57b6f306aca96de,意式西装更贴身轻薄ff6063b0787a11528d0af31460421e01d227e73d,适合身材不那么宽肩细腰个子也不那么高的人0e267a48f0ae77c01f08b3253c5e2890,大多数中国人都更适合意大利西装582ca0cb67f8e69fefc207f6794798d237c0221a。它的颜色也更丰富一些JTVhZTA5MmM4MzVkOWM=,更符合意大利人的骚男特质5b0abcb8e13ce7f2a4eeb3adc1f00324。看看Pitti Uomo就知道了MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbFlfZu8k7WiMDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGgiGWyuKmi

df73bf362b3aa26154aef81f6d69ef13

558c048c3860b0290986ab0923a45a9c

JjVhZTA5MmM4MmRjMmI=

7fcae538630d3b9b341f18cb6187b8829b5d7841

27061be8987adcabd65f3be5aa3786a14f3a54cd

美国:MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbGgiaCxk7Gi

XjVhZTA5MmM4MmUyMjA=

麦当劳是美国的标志MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtjZ69uL2i,一份本来应该等待半小时的牛肉汉堡5分钟就能出炉MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbFlfZ2w28ei。除了将汉堡工业化外IzVhZTA5MmM4MzYwYTA=,美式西装也是大批量生产的产物MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbFlfZ68ta2iMDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGgjKyx272i

9e7f60f61a4aada6caf330289f6bb39d

为了能让生产周期缩短QDVhZTA5MmM4MzYyMGE=,美式西装上衣剪裁简单且很宽大XjVhZTA5MmM4MzYzNmY=,看看川普的穿着就知道了NWFlMDkyYzgzYjA0Yw==4ce9aa28d7c7180c7aacfce6eab0fe1df7e76335

0b4960089e130a1f717b02ec40959281

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f4ec0aa262e6946020eec89d3c7fb659

JTVhZTA5MmM4MmVjYjg=

美式西装肩膀不像英式那么硬挺cb89055fd9bbb3b501e3c1bf06d9c799,以2到3个扣子的单排扣为主42731b8df14826fc6c100f228e52c36f,后背为单开叉设计IzVhZTA5MmM4M2IxYmY=KjVhZTA5MmM4MmVlMzU=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QftKDps7djbCZqr6KjGixyKGi

c1769b92dc253e69ce3be7cabcf4bf0eafb71781

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGgkKu8ta2i

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGgkK2wuLGi

2576ffdeff729c3b715d356a2b59f825

美式西装不精致239d7f8fe1081454c43772309263ad54ee0caf74,也很少有收腰MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtkGexuK2i,一般都是直上直下的H型MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QftKDps7djbCZq72dgKu9oqGi。袖子较长b1cbddb23fd4083774c3c3abb530e343cf38fce2,奥巴马这种比较瘦的人穿美式西装会看起来很宽松09a2ffba1e8944f651d200786627c24ff0c096a4bf69de592b8b9475a9310ee833220e66

JDVhZTA5MmM4MmY4ZjE=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGgkGixqLmi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGgkZu828-i

4b7fa87d024e21f647efcbea4ca94c88

8f06709476d22b251fa35bfc71e2ef9812699a54

-+-XjVhZTA5MmM4MzAwODc=

最后5e9d06627347e3b25cefa957d923a1f0dc8a70cd,本格男士帮大家总结一下MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbFlgGSwuL2i。英国西装虽然最有逼格89cad50b054bc4b82d7848857a40c34b40eb0990,但基本没什么好的成衣品牌了5358f6b6f13a4b53e707fc2166d7188b,款型也并不适合普通身材的人;意大利西装相对来说更流行QDVhZTA5MmM4MzcwYjY=,对身材的包容性更高;美国西装偏宽大MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtmquwpc-i,适合身材魁梧的人8c112959c5a2b6f329bfea502910d836,但是款型也比较老气MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbFlgGWypcuiMDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGteKq9qLWi

XjVhZTA5MmM4MzAzNzE=

现在大多数国际性品牌的西装MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtmq29taWi,不论来自哪个国家15729f33abf2f20e4beae1dccc4a8320,风格都在日渐趋同9eb7180e614a271402b4368157d0303f,与其执着于品牌和产地MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QftKDps7djbCZq7KtnmSysqGi,不如关注本格男士ebb311b16fb528e91d8217564d801784861212fb,看我们制作的视频学习分辨西装好坏的小窍门MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGtm5yxta2i,买一件真正高品质又适合自己的MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbFlgGa9uL2iQDVhZTA5MmM4MzA0YzY=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6QtqSZgaN_ZbGteGSwtbGi

- END- MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js6QtqSZgaN_ZbGteGWx272i

1243340e2add04e73998fde542aa69d366598eec

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