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意大利、英国和美国的西装到底哪个值得买?

6b015a4dd23ac2483de0575b296d46d2cd4693fa

记得《浴血黑帮》里复仇者Luca曾去Tommy的办公室戏谑了他的西服b5b807eae7218bd7c00e36d662039a204e968074,他说:“你的西服没我的好MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6EzMbdgn14mbGdgaCytb2i。”79e7678a795b0514f4544d54f2ee6117d042bbff

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6EzMbdgn14mbGHfGaw28-i

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6EzMbdgn14mbGHfGexk7mi

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然后Luca补充了一句176d3d46090fae3c5ab8c2a79573fb22e035ae25,他说:“我的西服是意大利人做的096c2be40b7bd5bc67a2e4938c7eb37642048162。”6c81ed3e3532e5f1bf97d72279ef44af

c1cb6bb9ef40d9c7814f389c70e9315d

就像咖啡分美式和意式MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QfZiE3KyUjY13qb2tkGiw2KGi,不同国家的西装也有所不同MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js6EzMbdgn14mbGdhKyxqK2i。比方说MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QfZiE3KyUjY13qb2tm568yKGi,《王牌特工》里的英式西装风格就和《大空头》里的华尔街西装很不相同0ecf30b35cea51afdba0c09c1f4b2e26JTVhNjcyNGFhMTIxMjE=

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IzVhNjcyNGFhMTI0ZWE=

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(《王牌特工》)bff28e5d33f78af74b72da235dfad186

bf8f20804a93ab7af14bdaac0bc0d075e6598698

IzVhNjcyNGFhMTJhMTU=

JDVhNjcyNGFhMTJiNTY=

(《大空头》)77ca7d71a24aff1d2666106cdbfcea01

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6EzMbdgn14mbGHgZ29tbWi

有互联网公司的朋友跟本格说KjVhNjcyNGFhMWNhMGU=,每到年底MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKhZuxtc-i,中关村购物中心的各个西装品牌专卖店就会挤满码农99462fcfecd36ee960aae138b664cec8,因为好多公司年会要求穿正装JDVhNjcyNGFhMWNkZDA=,而码农你懂的MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKhZ-wuKmi,这往往是他们的第一套西装JDVhNjcyNGFhMjM2MTA=。这时候某浪和某度的程序员就会交流一下年终奖9c719b20b575326417272060f425fd84033330e1,顺便一起吐槽某新独角兽公司年会要求穿校服是没底蕴没文化401b9d230ac3184055bf4fc839edf49e9a182832MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6EzMbdgn14mbGHgZ-wy8ei

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一些年终奖比较高的就会咨询本格IzVhNjcyNGFhMWQxOGI=,到底是买英国品牌西装还是买意大利的91c4e4c086f50623ee69ead341b6366d,或者是买美国的MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6EzMbdgn14mbGdhGa8zrGi。今天b35906479420a05f9e787f73a59db3c6,本格就跟大家讲一下这几个国家西装的区别b279879e05f18c8de039103b0818d2a9aae7b256ae09216bef951849ecfb4685

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英国:f1efa3b65cf5d45fcc22679728188f07

JjVhNjcyNGFhMTM2ZDY=

18世纪伦敦萨维尔街的裁缝发明了一种被叫做Smocking Jacket的男士西装8b9e01545b62b612955e97dc4aceac55,之后成为英国贵族和上流社会晚餐时的正式着装MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKiGS8y7Gi,也就是现代西装的原型MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6EzMbdgn14mbGdhZuxy8-i。所以MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKiGawy7Gi,要论血统47995d1c14e3b39e7618d3ba837366e3,英国的西装最纯正QDVhNjcyNGFhMjNjYzA=15563826354dcb2d27b7118c2755b5a8

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英国西装最大的特点是宽肩细腰MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QfZiE3KyUjY13qb53o6CxoqGi,面料较厚899cc907a9c0732bf6c0d3169d8d2c18,穿起来是倒三角形NWE2NzI0YWEyM2UxZQ==49b989da8813ed4a19c7512274d9110e

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从萨维尔街的定制西装发展而来KjVhNjcyNGFhMWRkZTg=,英式西装代表品牌强调合身f104eff6bfe76880d631c69d3817045b11ee2edd,肩膀平直MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKiaC8uL2i,形很硬MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6EzMbdgn14mbGdhZ-xzrmiMDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6EzMbdgn14mbGHiKuw27Gi

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(英国西装品牌Huntsman的双排扣西装)2e5ce0341ed035c0f0ae412b1a1ea21b

ITVhNjcyNGFhMTQ5OTM=

而且英国西装的胸垫很厚ITVhNjcyNGFhMWUyMzY=,穿起来会显得比较魁梧、挺拔fa836ef5a8e092b1ae3714f88573f0f6267b8588。其实就是多年前英国人发明的假胸肌JDVhNjcyNGFhMWUzYWE=,大概就是下图白色的部分0745939f57c095ef2986e8cbf1f299c3KjVhNjcyNGFhMTRhZDM=

QDVhNjcyNGFhMTRjMTE=

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MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6EzMbdgn14mbGHiZ-9qLmi

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与此同时8f509ab200df73e109ba56406d738ba5658e70b6,英国西装的腰部又收紧58e40832f8f7a48c7778ab5118890095这种型的西装对穿着者的身材要求很高MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKjGSxuK2i,一定是要肩宽腰细NWE2NzI0YWExZTdjZQ==,即便是抖森这种身材穿不合身都会肩膀架了个衣架1a0e418c06753823bc987f144c50b9799fe3bfb2MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6EzMbdgn14mbGHjKuxy7Wi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6EzMbdgn14mbGHjKy8tbWi

JjVhNjcyNGFhMTU0ZDY=

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此外JDVhNjcyNGFhMWU5MmI=,英国西装驳头比较低c12885e3d136ebcdaf3ff90c888a0a00,简单说MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKjZu9qL2i,就是领子上那个三角形缺口6a6c9e21a6bbf85cf00b4e11d09ccdf0,位置比较靠下MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6EzMbdgn14mbGdiGSwy8-i。意大利西装的驳头比较高10f05aea2228f3f871e45549b30c3d50935ea509,那个小三角缺口有时候都快到肩膀的高度了68a8e32aaf1f980c73ccb3e030335954a9270f58b130042248c2e5ca7c21dc41

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KjVhNjcyNGFhMTVlMzk=

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英国西装通常在侧面还会有一个票兜19864a0c8b239cc6a8abd3d76bca27f7bee56c44,背部通常为双开衩92e44bbce649e0df5ae36bc00d4946909674c039,就像一个小“屁帘”;美式西装为单开衩8ec9d6471de4b73bcd2b55f6a9358e3f835aa450,过去意大利西装通常不开衩fa5969992dde252b64f046d9833c0137,但近些年大多数和英国西装一样使用双开衩MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6EzMbdgn14mbGdiGa9pami1fe2eec18e06b575157c1627b766285def2cac51

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英式西裤也很有特点MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKkGO9qK2i,通常都是高腰设计74ff4f5301258cfc3b74c5bf681f76ca,且有两个省7463e77d545e58ff3e77f4b91346b6a1。这个字应该读作ShǎngITVhNjcyNGFhMWY4YjA=,就是西裤裤线上部的褶皱8eb4acfaa36f00d25fcceb440e8761666b428864b90f342cf72c16df5c2908a6025ae1ea

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由于英国天气寒冷d538e59c024476176fb587ed363021b2,英国西装材质较厚871b3a031e5298e24aa34d1d415aa6c6ad50bfc6,花呢和鱼骨纹都是常用的材料9b137bc8d4385e27eb370a2536b46108b4e44a45,当然还有威尔士亲王格ee0fbf4d74fd35811c747360cfe40168e211a2ceMDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QfZiE3KyUjY13qbKgjZ2w2KGi

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虽然英国的西装最经典JjVhNjcyNGFhMWZlNTc=,但不意味着最好看MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6EzMbdgn14mbGdiZ6wk6mi。再加上英国西装品牌有些已经被意大利或香港的集团收购MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKkZ-8tc-i,或者把产地搬到了意大利14476428577681a92826568672b187bf5c028633,所以想买到原汁原味的纯正英式西装很难a9544d101e42bf21a97a87f93b4645a2JTVhNjcyNGFhMTc3YjA=

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意大利:9242e1503602b93607f87d820bc152034c2281c9

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意大利西装最大的特点是轻薄b9bbbb1bc2f1620aa69a33056e92a83d,也很修身JTVhNjcyNGFhMjUwZjc=。由于意大利天气炎热MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6EzMbdgn14mbGdeKy8k7Wi,意大利西装不像英国西装那样硬挺1823fcffb9e1547458c0637a6fcb7ca8,材料也很轻薄d5326b63e4e52180a26d90695695613278c3d924。尤其意式西装的肩垫相对较圆和自然e9ae744bf215740f20abf3738bee2b38b0b85c1c9cad5be29d92735d53198326

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(意大利顶级西装品牌Brioni)78082d2d82ae3bd3b9e62ba2688edcab09ebacf1

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和英式西装不同MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6EzMbdgn14mbGdeGSx26mi,意大利西装用双排扣的少XjVhNjcyNGFhMjA3Yjk=,大多使用单排扣MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6QfZiE3KyUjY13qrF3nquwoqGi,驳头也很高MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6EzMbdgn14mbGdjK28k62i。意式西装的口袋也很有意思6f771dc9e94b82993c79f48c0878a686,通常没有袋盖IzVhNjcyNGFhMjBiOTk=,所以看起来会跟更简洁a8d6770ac2a7279a41d7c45d84a8103a4e45bf4601c8b5df4568d7fc256cc3c8

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西裤的差异也很大QDVhNjcyNGFhMjBjZGU=,意大利式西裤偏低腰紧臀设计QDVhNjcyNGFhMjBlMjY=,不如英国和美国的宽松舒适9f20fef7e7a3a3fc6e9fa111fde852764f414d0cMDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6EzMbdgn14mbGHoqqw27mi

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MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js6EzMbdgn14mbGHoqy9pcui

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总的来说0e1cb287851d0db0f8e6ee7d908e82a1,意式西装更贴身轻薄f1baed4cf9ed179f3d692069fab43039,适合身材不那么宽肩细腰个子也不那么高的人7ac2455a540525a6a9263894f7b11011,大多数中国人都更适合意大利西装4412a2a886e0837564259942d1f8b899364a8265。它的颜色也更丰富一些MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6EzMbdgn14mbGdfKyxpaWi,更符合意大利人的骚男特质MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6EzMbdgn14mbGdjGe9y7Wi。看看Pitti Uomo就知道了4ec7d38a12dc5d3954430bbba2b572c32dbbe028XjVhNjcyNGFhMTk4ZTI=

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美国:3b9db31e3bcd833de0efc3d4f5156469

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麦当劳是美国的标志687810971e28aff0abaf889419fbb0fcfae2bd9b,一份本来应该等待半小时的牛肉汉堡5分钟就能出炉9d3e3f9aec1c1aebe0ad7cc6f0524a66e2cfe7fa。除了将汉堡工业化外XjVhNjcyNGFhMjE1YmM=,美式西装也是大批量生产的产物XjVhNjcyNGFhMjVkZDQ=af49b1e80effd0dc86c01780a43bf23a

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKfK2xpc-i

为了能让生产周期缩短63899d165479fe0169a107f6ccf88d84,美式西装上衣剪裁简单且很宽大fcd6b0cc781141ea0a5e72639a4eeda5056138b0,看看川普的穿着就知道了QDVhNjcyNGFhMjVmMDc=ITVhNjcyNGFhMWE1ODg=

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JjVhNjcyNGFhMWE5NWU=

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美式西装肩膀不像英式那么硬挺IzVhNjcyNGFhMjE5Y2M=,以2到3个扣子的单排扣为主1ca60e5c3023f63b7d1c0598f84a0e4d17cbd0df,后背为单开叉设计3f506ab3fb01bb81b296281ca13f235eaf0bb24d9ce5110a4add3a932219544a20397c10

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKfZ2xuLGi

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美式西装不精致MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6EzMbdgn14mbGdfZyx27mi,也很少有收腰fd95825cf5e29a0e1ef848ae772afaaf,一般都是直上直下的H型45b5643aa6e4ece95b5cc7f7833f16fd。袖子较长5311202f5c5b74daae5ddb5e4d150ba509b08a83,奥巴马这种比较瘦的人穿美式西装会看起来很宽松f44518a5effef03724b39932c3462daa91e706243a67faa0d66a6f2249fe8542bcb4b66a

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-+-9907f7ed66eaf6b4bd1086b76f6a06994baf29b3

最后cde82fb71f4c10fe4163cbbef890938c8ad3336e,本格男士帮大家总结一下IzVhNjcyNGFhMjY0MWU=。英国西装虽然最有逼格201ac1016dbef1eabbfe8fa1360545fc1dfd91d2,但基本没什么好的成衣品牌了57fd977e960552f761ac7ccea5c83747847e6233,款型也并不适合普通身材的人;意大利西装相对来说更流行006373cd7e301b914510cf52dd23df89,对身材的包容性更高;美国西装偏宽大fb9754cc8dbb781054fcc9d23e3fa636a6237695,适合身材魁梧的人4f525a0a6457a7c594cb4343d8738c4b,但是款型也比较老气KjVhNjcyNGFhMjY1NjE=deba7806ef580c4934e109564e50fd2a

89033d322e8629e0b82f74198807b379

现在大多数国际性品牌的西装16ca3b79d7e2a24a8c6a431998a0792b,不论来自哪个国家QDVhNjcyNGFhMjI5ZDk=,风格都在日渐趋同MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js6EzMbdgn14mbGdgZuwy8ui,与其执着于品牌和产地af3d7a6ce2b29a77bcee937adef790376ff35573,不如关注本格男士4f5d8365364e41ed22a0f966fa37cdaf3fc46b9e,看我们制作的视频学习分辨西装好坏的小窍门4fea46aeb09075d36a0cd558c40a42200da7c1a9,买一件真正高品质又适合自己的9e52bc02af3dfc2f7b81111f856289f2JjVhNjcyNGFhMWJmODQ=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKgaC8k72i

- END- 7da1e7c8fa4f99c5ec789f0ec62eb782

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6EzMbdgn14mbGKhKyx27Wi

 

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