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卖999元的回力球鞋,是不是真的翻身了?

前段时间本格写了一篇关于“美式复古”的稿子MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js-DpqzcjaCamr2ggGO9tami,有读者留言说要复古中国千年服饰IzViMDIxYjhiYmI3NzQ=,评论虽然略搞笑d7f23686be8527c5d8f85342177c3ac3,但我想9f59aa150382f5f4136161e4282d0bef,为什么日本人将美国的东西为我所用就成为一种新的时髦IzViMDIxYjhiYmJiYzI=,那中国呢?22a941fea087b84361477f7a5a87dc08021f7314

155b3558f2dadf04857b5cb54e721ce68ae01b5e

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs-DpqzcjaCamr2dgZ-ypc-i

▲《与青春有关的日子》剧照cf095e4351eae0f0b9af5036b4ac930c2661d019

前段时间回力推出的“回天之力”联名球鞋在一定程度上引发了网络热议NWIwMjFiOGJiYmQzNw==,有人说是“国潮当道”68562f27ec9d0958d00565d8e080b210,有人则斥其为抄袭MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs-DpqzcjaCamr2thZ6wtbmi3fafb576c6b8c6e044283fff37416ec96da22c34

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2dhK2wtbmi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2dhGOxk72i

抄袭?难道仅仅是因为在鞋面上加了文字元素JjViMDIxYjhiYmMwMWI=,以及系上了防盗扣f42f80b2cfb63a5f14c9f617b7a3455e7a575511,就是抄袭?60a2834d2498a46ff64bde5b6d20bd6d

那本格想给大家看看今年Celine推出的运动鞋有多像回力035b631c803c6b2c712b63147f8082ccQDViMDIxYjhiYjM4NzU=

4819f132152c03c859fe6653f5f3b494

XjViMDIxYjhiYjNiN2M=

IzViMDIxYjhiYjNjZjA=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2dhZ6xpa2i

▲左:Celine  右:回力JDViMDIxYjhiYjNmYzA=

还推出了蓝色款KjViMDIxYjhiYmMyZWU=,同样非常相似XjViMDIxYjhiYzQxMWE=MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs-DpqzcjaCamr2diKqwtami

3babc1e40a9a4bf4136f41866b5ac0c8

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs-DpqzcjaCamr2diKy9y6Wi

▲左:Celine   右:回力f5959cb92b391aa19408bbe06e6f86e0

抄袭这事在时尚圈里一直都屡禁不止MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs-DpqzcjaCamr2ghK2xpaWi,甚至大牌设计师之间互相借鉴反复炒类似款的情况十分常见MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs-DpqzcjaCamr2ghGO8uK2i,此处本格还没提ZARAQDViMDIxYjhiYzQyOTI=。今天本格想和大家从回力聊起谈谈那些实实在在的中国老牌球鞋e26adbc89f9c4acdb307da0e993135a86e6df34ede50f9afdbe20835150b0cfa

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs-DpqzcjaCamr2diGaxpa2i

◆  “回天之力”从来不只是一双球鞋ITViMDIxYjhiYjRhMTc=

回力品牌创立于1927年MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2ghGWwuLWi,至今已有91年的历史JDViMDIxYjhiYmM4YjA=,前前后后经历过三次转型IzViMDIxYjhiYzQ1NzQ=JDViMDIxYjhiYjRiOGM=

3f44527e7090bb8581962adcc08dca9f9b0aa3e0

36e5210725ba412bc4b0612a5503b973

MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qgd2DzKnNg318mrJ6jZ29oqGi

1935年fb16f77868b7eb8a4551583f4bd37d6af3ffdd2f,中文“回力”和英文“Warrior”商标注册e2a4c3df96aba41fff24bf46d3b278e6。回力品牌见证了民族工业的兴起MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs-DpqzcjaCamr2ghZux28ei,也经历了从计划经济到市场经济的转型cd460b28463c243465a7f3558b3e09648ae924c5c0fc9f1b39cfae1255d95592

在经历了七八十年代的辉煌之后cf174f8d95b0c79e6420bd871b04cdb7,回力陷入了低潮524de768445ea697d2340eee51e4a20f。2000年2e6c29d68a05f760066fe69f0a2d3820,上海回力鞋业总厂宣告破产MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs-DpqzcjaCamr2ghZ-8k62i,“回力”系列商标转至上海华谊集团保全JTViMDIxYjhiYmQxNjI=,并由华谊集团和经营者群体共同投资MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qgd2DzKnNg318mr53fZy9sqGi,组建了上海回力鞋业有限公司dee76804aa4032e441adaf4f4c2040aaf4311b6bda411aaa383756dd70c20a668306ee72

8870781a96ecfffdeb2aa75f217bc15e

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs-DpqzcjaCamr2djGO8uLmi

0815f551a7fd591c0ef5694ddffde03b71529cc9

2008年9b5a629e380cc2337166264b4bbcf6f736cf7240,挺过艰难时期的回力再次谋求转型MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs-DpqzcjaCamr2tiZyypcei。就在同年6cd7450a28ea3c083f5a4e48795bcffd,好莱坞影星奥兰多·布鲁姆上脚了回力的经典款式WD-2IzViMDIxYjhiYmQ3MGQ=,并且借着北京奥运会的热度XjViMDIxYjhiYmQ4NjU=,回力在当时的国内掀起了一股复古风潮NWIwMjFiOGJjNGUxZQ==53dc487eb79ce27767b452b1bd869c39be10438a

71abe98e2c0061b02b710853a57d00a3a4d30215

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2djZuypbmi

030ccab260efa1c9e538010a3ce1b8a9ba3bebe4

不断转型创新的回力在2015年销量突破了6000万双NWIwMjFiOGJiZDljYw==,总销售额达到35亿元7d36227b2e87e6f2daad79c5735c5c27NWIwMjFiOGJiNWU4Mg==

2016年7月JDViMDIxYjhiYmRiMjI=,回力在上海启动了品牌升级战略6866996a68eb6fa023207d5d34834ca4,标志着第三次转型的开始a93d7e0a6b4c7e270a2caf9f240ace13。这次转型的重点是将人群定位瞄准在中高端消费者44155e626f17d88ce5c612b09f750e8ee2cdd269,回力一口气推出三大系列的12款新品bb07fc3114f8e64b4b99c1c3c8785c93,并对自己的经典产品进行升级9f50e031e80a50738dabf29cc2a050021de0beb0b94aa7e874b2229a5c67811639d8e5f31908d0c6

MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qgd2DzKnNg318mrKdeGSx2KGi

NWIwMjFiOGJiNjJmMA==

f3ca1a4e3f5fc89e60a232a5611db985

2018年推出的“回天之力”更是卖到千元一双ITViMDIxYjhiYzUzZWE=MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js-DpqzcjaCamr2dkGO8zr2i

有人会觉得花费999元的价格买一双回力JTViMDIxYjhiYmUwYzM=,太贵了吧...但一双Golden Goose的小白鞋卖3000多还有众多追随者MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js-DpqzcjaCamr2gjKuwtaWi,而近百年的历史的回力却不足以定价为999元吗?KjViMDIxYjhiYjY3NWI=

QDViMDIxYjhiYjY4ZGI=

◆  推动“复古回潮”的0fdc8ec3d18373e3743744631cc15ab7,从来不只有回力5b9bf2917b95ca7f3e97281b863d474f

中国自主的球鞋品牌除了回力a5a562596a1354297cf2e2662f0f4e77,还有飞跃、双星NWIwMjFiOGJjNTU2Mg==。它们同样在努力着MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs-DpqzcjaCamr2tjGS8y7Wi64605f0c102aed5b794e6505905ab904c4a0dfe5

飞跃球鞋诞生于1959年的上海MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs-DpqzcjaCamr2gjGSytaWi,前身是上海胶鞋一厂90767f873fc8c7d00350a2c06ec986f2,上海胶鞋一厂的前身则是大孚橡胶厂MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2tjGawy6mi。1986年上海胶鞋一厂改制MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2gjGex28ei,飞跃重归大孚橡胶厂MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs-DpqzcjaCamr2tjGeyqLWi。1990年2ca010cb6b091a56f310ffb266c96ae1,大孚橡胶厂将飞跃球鞋的商标使用权给了上海大博文鞋业有限公司XjViMDIxYjhiYmVjN2Y=,但是商标的专用权仍然归大孚橡胶厂所有ITViMDIxYjhiYzViMWE=。之后MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs-DpqzcjaCamr2gjZ29pb2i,大博文又归入到上海双钱集团名下JTViMDIxYjhiYzVjODg=。再后来abe70a769ad35d3d3107d9c849914a7f0626033d,双钱集团将飞跃的商标使用权授权给了上海生龙鞋业有限公司40bf3656f976ad561af8608dd1d5e375a3799db2MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qgd2DzKnNg318mrKggaCwsqGi

7fbff612984a02e626cbc72ffa3d0e2c

3c634c53053eb5fabc68d47d08f5517a

NWIwMjFiOGJiNzE3NQ==

飞跃球鞋的品牌归属权错综复杂596e2c4d288753f76f4fcc7ddc605d76,即便当下很多年轻人愿意为其买单e39395d94bde1a6b5c452c38507c4592,但盈利的也并非是以前的那些老厂了JTViMDIxYjhiYzVmNzM=JDViMDIxYjhiYjcyZGM=

为什么?因为一个叫Patrice Bastian的法国人MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qgd2DzKnNg318m7KKkZ6wsqGi。他2005年旅居在上海的时候53900c3e286fe4392e7dc0724a9c3901,无意中发现了飞跃球鞋ITViMDIxYjhiYmY1Mjc=,一眼就看中了其中的潮流元素与商业价值e0e48fd9ebc3f6ff2a8e3e9e8824745307ea2de4。随后他便找到了当时拥有飞跃商标使用权的大博文鞋业IzViMDIxYjhiYmY2OTA=,经过协商获得了飞跃的口头商标授权8dd6bc69ea7ed5446e9b20fce55f19507867bb26。但是飞跃的商标专用权仍在大孚橡胶厂JTViMDIxYjhiYmY3ZmI=,所以实际上大博文的口头授权并不合法775031701d7c3d3b5eb6c984ac63c86098bfe987366e291028454ec50e347435b09e29c1

d18a2e8c582cb5727e1c7dbe0c10b3d0

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js-DpqzcjaCamr2dmmWwy7mi

QDViMDIxYjhiYjc4YjI=

无奈的是QDViMDIxYjhiYmY5NjU=,法国人已经抢先在欧洲注册了FEIYUE的商标MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs-DpqzcjaCamr2gkGi8y72i,又找到其他的中国工厂代工生产QDViMDIxYjhiYzY2ZDU=。在欧洲卖到几十欧元一双的FEIYUE鞋实际上与大孚橡胶厂、大博文鞋业和生龙鞋业均无任何关系3b0e1525a70602c19c2f712f91ecc8ba0c38d636MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs-DpqzcjaCamr2dmmiwpbGi

但不得不承认MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qgd2DzKnNg318mr6ggKy82KGi,这个法国人具备长远眼光与正确的判断力ITViMDIxYjhiYmZkYjI=,才使得飞跃球鞋在欧洲收获了不俗的影响力449cc5ba5934c8692804e0e52c65c5194f23d537MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2dm5ux272i

ac26fd866bda914de37f734d535ae0d97d4c95b8

XjViMDIxYjhiYjdlNzM=

2f4dc2d5270c18af01e2e34e0b68964921e520ab

双星品牌(起始于1921年)同样拥有着悠久历史JDViMDIxYjhiYmZmMWE=,以及产品定位转型的问题b54a70cfb3ac748102d9c69e51fd8c1e,在这里就不做过多赘述了326d2d49d2b95c1fde9ad70ec5d5cab8MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs-DpqzcjaCamr2dnqqwk6mi

5f0f6eacf617c06223adae3d5719ba17d6967fa1

◆  来自几个年轻人的复古执念MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs-DpqzcjaCamr2dnq2wuK2i

中国的复古文化当然不只有球鞋JTViMDIxYjhiYzAyMDA=,服装同样是不可或缺的9837963a469dbb9ee8b41f46c33d46b9。早在七年前46c60c356e2e1c4da0747ec8bf17c25e,几个年轻人亲眼目睹了70年代的老纺织厂被爆破拆除53936ff851fa17f99a855d767536abe8,他们用仅有的积蓄MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs-DpqzcjaCamr2teGSxpami,买下了几台老式针织圆筒机JTViMDIxYjhiYzA3YzE=,经过修理后织出的第一批布c603bca1e4d502884a907901490fa25e4abe91f8,做成了衣服e926633049e3d1f2d098f360cf5081413b30f222,为纪念逝去的工厂与青春MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs-DpqzcjaCamr2teZywpaWi,他们命名为“国棉壹厂”(V&R)JTViMDIxYjhiYzZkZTU=bd72ee504ab9fd378433e01a34c462b2

ITViMDIxYjhiYjg3MDg=

5717ef0b318121ebd7b1d0236451e15589d35840

ITViMDIxYjhiYjg5YjU=

▲来自经典的力量QDViMDIxYjhiYzBkOGY=,每个细节精工细作MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qgd2DzKnNg318m7F6iZ-8yKGi,舒适耐穿250461d3ebe93929dc0216f06b57d7f7,不会因为时间流逝而失色NWIwMjFiOGJiOGIxNw==

“国棉壹厂”创建于2011年KjViMDIxYjhiYzExZjE=,是一家复古风格的服装品牌9a134eac49d77441a20528d9c2d9df4fc760f6c9。灵感来源于中国上世纪七、八十年代的平面艺术和穿着风格a5057deba8c7efe1ae342147fed410b475f08e03,结合了美式休闲的剪裁手法MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2tfK28zrGi,且在此基础上ITViMDIxYjhiYzE2NDY=,又融入了很多中国传统手工的元素MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs-DpqzcjaCamr2tfGWytcei,如印章、手工纺织布料、天然的靛蓝染料等69283b289949711bafd9f8c18dea2bed24039bad,非常重视面料的选择和洗水后的手感85d7f4a05803f966a8d0abdd93a86049,并且疯狂追求极致的细节和缝纫技术MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs-DpqzcjaCamr2tfZu9pbmi,追求一种质朴做工、优良纯真又充满激情的风格026a8e498c81c68d48f5f6485e375b926719e0edf3eb33aeeffbe7f8d02fae7d

XjViMDIxYjhiYjhkZDQ=

06093324309a37ca8fdf1c0c87313f5a

8be4f4b198b775fad1bb08ffbcc6d5015c1c9cdf

“国棉壹厂”的理念是希望通过这个品牌NWIwMjFiOGJjMWQ2Yw==,把中国的复古文化推向全世界8aece39d5c4f4e19409e08b770d3dd8e160143f4MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs-DpqzcjaCamr2doqq9qK2i

JTViMDIxYjhiYjkzNTU=

◆  审时度势后的产品升级ae0fb89af30008713968e6e2f6377564,到底值不值为其买单c4087d1b85e73e1d86d5e083dd53c498

XjViMDIxYjhiYjk2MWY=

XjViMDIxYjhiYjk3YTM=

bd70baa382a7b37fcb936a91e58101deab750b0c

▲鞋子本身没有价值MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2tfaCw27mi,为其价格买单的人给予了相对的灵魂MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs-DpqzcjaCamr2domixy8ei

本格经常在街上看到有路人穿回力、飞跃的球鞋1e135adf9c0b3575df2c0b17c339b8af,每次都会顿足观瞧许久XjViMDIxYjhiYzczZGU=。简洁的外观、经典的配色MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2tgKywtcui,再加之上世纪复古的气质MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js-DpqzcjaCamr2tgK2yuK2i,真的可谓是球鞋届的一股清流了c70146e07b1452493a9ea1ca107f6ee9。我们精心挑选了两款型号与大家分享:MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs-DpqzcjaCamr2do5u9qL2i

·  回力WB-90(90周年纪念定制款)MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs-DpqzcjaCamr2do52xtbmi

参考价格:¥118RMB2a05dd846d84b15051fd3a3d4574aa18

c989031a8de318a89faa5c7251f36f04441d6358

JTViMDIxYjhiYmExYmM=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qgd2DzKnNg318mr2HgKuysqGi

回力品牌90周年的纪念款XjViMDIxYjhiYzI2MjA=,鞋面依旧选用经典的白红配色;但在鞋舌与鞋跟处增添了细节设计MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs-DpqzcjaCamr2tgGWxzrmi,用“90”包裹着“回力”IzViMDIxYjhiYzI4Y2Y=,突出品牌历史的同时ITViMDIxYjhiYzJhMjc=,也具备了一定的设计感;中底采用回力特有的“祥云”设计2b0bdbe5246de7bf27cb6051a8edd2fe,虽然本格认为更像“木纹”83f62b420e19e153e9f44ec063a3b901,但这并不妨碍美观;底部是一如既往的橡胶材质MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs-DpqzcjaCamr2tgZ6w27mi,虽然脚感并不是特别好MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs-DpqzcjaCamr2tgZ-yqL2i,但也可以满足日常通勤MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2tmmSyuL2iMDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs-DpqzcjaCamr2gfK2ypc-i

·  飞跃DF/-510 网球鞋229ccd1b3938cb4127a1388245f9c430

参考价格:¥89RMBMDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs-DpqzcjaCamr2gfGWxy8-i

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs-DpqzcjaCamr2gfGa9pa2i

IzViMDIxYjhiYmFhNWQ=

IzViMDIxYjhiYmFiYzU=

百搭是小白鞋的特性0950d2b55f9edb14f935b9be77373e5768a800ca,这款飞跃DF/-510网球鞋并没有采用鞋侧面大LOGO的方式MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs-DpqzcjaCamr2thKuxtaWi,取而代之的则是将LOGO缩小ad2a6f1b9cb71324a1d8853938e57c9c87cb0e50,放在鞋跟的侧后方位置;透气的帆布材质柔软舒适;锯齿状的大底设计能够给予双脚更多的弹性支撑255ff704de5ad299282e13289943a2bfdd51bd4c8e0ab99ff76b53c5ad7b206230db75bb

鲁迅曾经说过:“世上本无路IzViMDIxYjhiYzM1NmY=,只是走的人多了df099d600c5e4acd21277bdd87d3b570,也就成了路dbb11360a7048f379aab6935993203a5。”同样的道理2ad23ebc6c88593858cd5c2ad9b6901e,也许现在并没有所谓的“赤呐咔叽”(China Casual) 概念MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs-DpqzcjaCamr2thGe8uK2i,但本格相信1e0488b3872dbde3b61407bcbf13e9e3c2382af9,当有一天穿国潮的人多了MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js-DpqzcjaCamr2thZyytcui,便会形成吧67dfdf567e7c4ccb6da2d1358883ca3148fc2ae7521c6fb3adcaa1d0b2a585e67e9b930592e1b46f

b02c78fdd4ed3efed47e97542e306e44

ENDMDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qgd2DzKnNg318mr2deGa9oqGi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs-DpqzcjaCamr2ggKu9tcei


ca81f8858d94cf0efd882360865b7435317c7d20

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