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卖999元的回力球鞋,是不是真的翻身了?

前段时间本格写了一篇关于“美式复古”的稿子7a7f18ec8abf97a2d5b2276740be332b,有读者留言说要复古中国千年服饰QDVjMTc3ZTc3NGQ5NjM=,评论虽然略搞笑8c36b2a80288c3922edf6e36c4ab62b1,但我想MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGi8uLGi,为什么日本人将美国的东西为我所用就成为一种新的时髦05d58b0852ccfbb43c591ffab498419c088bf5e4,那中国呢?ITVjMTc3ZTc3NGNmNmM=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6haCx262i

JTVjMTc3ZTc3NGNmYTA=

▲《与青春有关的日子》剧照1264db84a856e005d65542b37b329bc580fbf827

前段时间回力推出的“回天之力”联名球鞋在一定程度上引发了网络热议51c046db537082a29288cb481518e0c7,有人说是“国潮当道”8052d1c4dd88a0447f254339f854003f,有人则斥其为抄袭MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jK2wzrWibc7fbfff198e9cd0c283f37284698b3e

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6haC9tbGi

6147da2d9fbf999cb2bc536ac38019a8

抄袭?难道仅仅是因为在鞋面上加了文字元素eafc8b754f84b2b248ae84dc8f17f799,以及系上了防盗扣986f998c2eac3aefe6844c878dacc7f9,就是抄袭?01092b8d27409d1665f959b0f6419136967964df

那本格想给大家看看今年Celine推出的运动鞋有多像回力IzVjMTc3ZTc3NGUzNjA=NWMxNzdlNzc0ZDA1MA==

MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qhd6E3MfQgrCVYb53eGSyoqGi

fe0b9b04d6b38d60101103a516d3133ce617ccfa

ITVjMTc3ZTc3NGQwYTI=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iKq8tbmi

▲左:Celine  右:回力f28361339c78f3f79c2debbbb7bb69d5606e4c87

还推出了蓝色款JjVjMTc3ZTc3NGRhNjc=,同样非常相似MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jK2xy7GiMDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iKq9tc-i

JjVjMTc3ZTc3NGQxMTY=

ecc3b91335e26903e75e36453e8fb0cbed6516c5

▲左:Celine   右:回力8e9ec93680d12248fb51af2b5d50cc708e6513b6

抄袭这事在时尚圈里一直都屡禁不止IzVjMTc3ZTc3NGRhODk=,甚至大牌设计师之间互相借鉴反复炒类似款的情况十分常见e7e9aa54c2cba1b7192b63d1e0e6a2d1,此处本格还没提ZARAMDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jK2xk7Gi。今天本格想和大家从回力聊起谈谈那些实实在在的中国老牌球鞋156d64120faf2e56e1bc9a4041524c54bd1393887aa7c9b49c5744e2d681324c

3f949ca276a6cad7a57039c70ff3a57d

◆  “回天之力”从来不只是一双球鞋ea866b1eda26642d8241e588b805ebd921b99f16

回力品牌创立于1927年2c18522b4edb2bf36b4f0dc9d64c743b755664e7,至今已有91年的历史d01a8a4d7fb02f251ccce70a439d7725,前前后后经历过三次转型MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jK28y6WiMDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iKu8taWi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iKu8y8ei

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iKu9pbWi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iKu9y6mi

1935年MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iZu9pbWi,中文“回力”和英文“Warrior”商标注册MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jK2828ui。回力品牌见证了民族工业的兴起MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iZu9y7Gi,也经历了从计划经济到市场经济的转型MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jK29qL2ieebbe8cea71c7fe92f407ed152558d75fb6600cf

在经历了七八十年代的辉煌之后8c16c7d9b1c3a53ab22302a69e16bd3fd208a299,回力陷入了低潮ITVjMTc3ZTc3NGU0MGI=。2000年cef0a8c3f8a242ff9b6029720d272aa0,上海回力鞋业总厂宣告破产1b2e964392ebfcfda3ea5781125e973e,“回力”系列商标转至上海华谊集团保全35789f3a0c89e2c31e83981155783ec8,并由华谊集团和经营者群体共同投资MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iZyx28ui,组建了上海回力鞋业有限公司MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jGOwqLmi63bd436f53f7d6ed4c00cfcfc14367f0

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iKyw28-i

6102124efadc201f9ba835deabc24f9b2f7df6b9

7b271b3142925c9d03e440d4764ae9b2ae2899a0

2008年XjVjMTc3ZTc3NGRiYTQ=,挺过艰难时期的回力再次谋求转型b45f9c5df54670550f241dfb218bf37e6a48f6b8。就在同年48d7598e68c6584e9c77286e74f8c8e9,好莱坞影星奥兰多·布鲁姆上脚了回力的经典款式WD-2MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qhd6E3MfQgrCVYb56gZ2xoqGi,并且借着北京奥运会的热度02176e083b3f4baed69406b64051a5df2491e753,回力在当时的国内掀起了一股复古风潮fe25cfaac765625ac1938b2c24c38d59aff32ae7MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iKyypaWi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iKyytcei

QDVjMTc3ZTc3NGQyZDg=

b1584dfa7ca1a2c3a95414392258aa69f2b3c7fc

不断转型创新的回力在2015年销量突破了6000万双f2aa7914b347ce16fbf127fc4b0d06bb56f3e3bb,总销售额达到35亿元1d476b0b1247de296c469d8f2aa88bc7MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iKy9y7Gi

2016年7月8844c6dab60150d5397d487c83411383978b951d,回力在上海启动了品牌升级战略48880bfe8181a181ab73820995a8a455b0fb358d,标志着第三次转型的开始9bc449f68d7f388c3fcd62a257c91dfa。这次转型的重点是将人群定位瞄准在中高端消费者NWMxNzdlNzc0ZGM1ZQ==,回力一口气推出三大系列的12款新品eb6e8c74196f694cb8db6f92d691ab6c63d27459,并对自己的经典产品进行升级d0dcf56efad7676176ec7a7922c183b561618fc7MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iK2wtami

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iK2wzrWi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iK2xqKmi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iK2xy62i

2018年推出的“回天之力”更是卖到千元一双XjVjMTc3ZTc3NGU0YzU=MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iK2x28-i

有人会觉得花费999元的价格买一双回力0fd555bde70e96e95022ab60cef1d6fb1ac2a479,太贵了吧...但一双Golden Goose的小白鞋卖3000多还有众多追随者MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iZ2yta2i,而近百年的历史的回力却不足以定价为999元吗?JDVjMTc3ZTc3NGQzYTY=

9f7d9cf2ccde8075994af98fa718b8b4

◆  推动“复古回潮”的abf819ad936dc45c00995ac21a072a2124d1ed4f,从来不只有回力MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iK2826mi

中国自主的球鞋品牌除了回力IzVjMTc3ZTc3NGRjZTU=,还有飞跃、双星IzVjMTc3ZTc3NGU0ZGM=。它们同样在努力着MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jGO9qL2i8bbaf12cc88d409df59e8eec9f9975e6

飞跃球鞋诞生于1959年的上海IzVjMTc3ZTc3NGRkMDI=,前身是上海胶鞋一厂32cc68656c34d1d12a85d1fcc87ffa79,上海胶鞋一厂的前身则是大孚橡胶厂303c460b5b81d771e3d3bb0fe4ca5890。1986年上海胶鞋一厂改制b62db57005542eaa75c7a439af877bb5,飞跃重归大孚橡胶厂5498a009b5e913f67df3e2c931ac69bb。1990年95ba09f90358259b6adb0c0e140e9f53,大孚橡胶厂将飞跃球鞋的商标使用权给了上海大博文鞋业有限公司IzVjMTc3ZTc3NGRkNmY=,但是商标的专用权仍然归大孚橡胶厂所有JDVjMTc3ZTc3NGU1M2E=。之后ITVjMTc3ZTc3NGRkODc=,大博文又归入到上海双钱集团名下IzVjMTc3ZTc3NGU1NTE=。再后来MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qhd6E3MfQgrCVYb56iGe9yKGi,双钱集团将飞跃的商标使用权授权给了上海生龙鞋业有限公司MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qhd6E3MfQgrCVYb6HjGSysqGi9997032a94486627cc547828ec66ac47

dedf4376fa4e74b94788cf9d883b6c14

a94aef118e800bebac9ef5f9e58ae23d

9e21f36d669201cdbf2b911b8b4dc7b764adb991

飞跃球鞋的品牌归属权错综复杂aeb79ec5ebf833428ef89dfa1a6e4d3e3b420857,即便当下很多年轻人愿意为其买单MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iZ68zrmi,但盈利的也并非是以前的那些老厂了MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jGSx26mide073a844f4bde6e9e94634cf3241ac1

为什么?因为一个叫Patrice Bastian的法国人1a7da2e23bcd63a70fe45e817eadf4ae419aa52c。他2005年旅居在上海的时候85c43736150a83b136f1a967b79dc8f0daacebdf,无意中发现了飞跃球鞋JDVjMTc3ZTc3NGRlMTI=,一眼就看中了其中的潮流元素与商业价值ff9da981614fc3958980943abc75fe0b。随后他便找到了当时拥有飞跃商标使用权的大博文鞋业MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iZ-wtbmi,经过协商获得了飞跃的口头商标授权87f8d0638a54317ab80aa6e97ea5ba1448addff6。但是飞跃的商标专用权仍在大孚橡胶厂7ebfc2aa9ce3e6409ba5deaf3665291c5a869a29,所以实际上大博文的口头授权并不合法995070f9674aa75632fbd67dafbc2e804c22b3d5MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGOxzq2i

JDVjMTc3ZTc3NGQ0OTc=

237e06cdf9b2e369f1ccbd19622555f656a849dd

51b2bb48f2fe92aef6764c7516429dfdfe5596c2

无奈的是d79e60244fa67c606760f4075b51f4d835526f03,法国人已经抢先在欧洲注册了FEIYUE的商标MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iZ-xzqmi,又找到其他的中国工厂代工生产d7241ff847abeec9ae84ee5e8ffa5290。在欧洲卖到几十欧元一双的FEIYUE鞋实际上与大孚橡胶厂、大博文鞋业和生龙鞋业均无任何关系fd2e706e993b140f43ee76c51c876af59613e292MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGO9pbWi

但不得不承认MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iZ-ypbGi,这个法国人具备长远眼光与正确的判断力2e25d284df9508cc38508616ac308ccb1eb63761,才使得飞跃球鞋在欧洲收获了不俗的影响力1915a686ef555b9d015f0e20e789f6585f06df8d650c808b8134d4fe3377680216437ac35a05687c

5f8374eab0dc83ce83da47b8d689b544060acbe9

NWMxNzdlNzc0ZDUzOQ==

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGSwk7Gi

双星品牌(起始于1921年)同样拥有着悠久历史QDVjMTc3ZTc3NGRlY2U=,以及产品定位转型的问题d63631db4a92e146273e5af8ce206ad8,在这里就不做过多赘述了f9ff90e62b1535437b241612f393d133JTVjMTc3ZTc3NGQ1NmU=

cd57a2f7834d236f2e111446d87918743430a671

◆  来自几个年轻人的复古执念MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGSyta2i

中国的复古文化当然不只有球鞋MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iZ-9tc-i,服装同样是不可或缺的JTVjMTc3ZTc3NGU2Nzk=。早在七年前6f50175d90644faa173bc3747ce025ee1775cd52,几个年轻人亲眼目睹了70年代的老纺织厂被爆破拆除MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iaCwtcui,他们用仅有的积蓄MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iaCw27mi,买下了几台老式针织圆筒机b4d80df47dd679d8cbfd0cec2e70b648692223d6,经过修理后织出的第一批布QDVjMTc3ZTc3NGRmN2U=,做成了衣服MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iaCypami,为纪念逝去的工厂与青春ITVjMTc3ZTc3NGRmYWQ=,他们命名为“国棉壹厂”(V&R)MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jGWxk7GiMDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGS8uKmi

b45ae8f3964f497ec5abe8eea384485753ac32e0

MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qhd6E3MfQgrCVYb53jZ69sqGi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGS9y72i

▲来自经典的力量5f1f2ec14df390acf567eb075173e9a3,每个细节精工细作ac566b85a2397953a613d0a0cc057206,舒适耐穿074cfb7fcaeb7cddad9722ff5d65f33b1a49c22b,不会因为时间流逝而失色JDVjMTc3ZTc3NGQ2MjI=

“国棉壹厂”创建于2011年JTVjMTc3ZTc3NGUwMGI=,是一家复古风格的服装品牌59bbd83be461b7901eba66e68f4c7b47bbf0651f。灵感来源于中国上世纪七、八十年代的平面艺术和穿着风格92971ca6c1ff96bbca3069763dc02bf2,结合了美式休闲的剪裁手法3f170a2cb0336da9bd1d6add15dc8b75,且在此基础上QDVjMTc3ZTc3NGUwNTc=,又融入了很多中国传统手工的元素JjVjMTc3ZTc3NGUwNzk=,如印章、手工纺织布料、天然的靛蓝染料等MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jKqxk7Gi,非常重视面料的选择和洗水后的手感QDVjMTc3ZTc3NGUwYTg=,并且疯狂追求极致的细节和缝纫技术94dfe1da75fba656fa281c44d74bf137,追求一种质朴做工、优良纯真又充满激情的风格KjVjMTc3ZTc3NGU2YzA=KjVjMTc3ZTc3NGQ2M2Y=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGWxpa2i

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGWxuL2i

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGWx28ei

“国棉壹厂”的理念是希望通过这个品牌MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qhd6E3MfQgrCVYb6HeZ29oqGi,把中国的复古文化推向全世界1f5cf135ffd733dc488101e4bf8f42a0a6d63eceIzVjMTc3ZTc3NGQ2YWY=

8f6efdf0b5c9940b37ff4a1fbd7e7c789c453bfd

◆  审时度势后的产品升级2ea905e3449950c6f8e76aef22dd95d14efa8f69,到底值不值为其买单MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qhd6E3MfQgrCVYb53kZ6woqGi

b24beecb77a0e1b65b221c46ae776b93

MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qhd6E3MfQgrCVYb53mqq8sqGi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qhd6E3MfQgrCVYb53mqyx2KGi

▲鞋子本身没有价值d01d810ccea645cc514fec8df3dcbfda6fd81fae,为其价格买单的人给予了相对的灵魂7e415fb5dee59192158acacdcfec92aa

本格经常在街上看到有路人穿回力、飞跃的球鞋520674112255a9e40a925644b4293ae1,每次都会顿足观瞧许久MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qhd6E3MfQgrCVYb6HkZ-woqGi。简洁的外观、经典的配色2dff828869d0d294cc3c6225fb819e3c,再加之上世纪复古的气质MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jKuxtbGi,真的可谓是球鞋届的一股清流了2a1ae9c3f54141f765ea5fc2f3faa933。我们精心挑选了两款型号与大家分享:JjVjMTc3ZTc3NGQ3NzA=

·  回力WB-90(90周年纪念定制款)ITVjMTc3ZTc3NGQ3ODc=

参考价格:¥118RMBIzVjMTc3ZTc3NGQ3YTQ=

e8adf01363b64e33695b3d57e073bc3ae6d1363d

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGa8zr2i

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGa9qK2i

回力品牌90周年的纪念款JDVjMTc3ZTc3NGUxN2Y=,鞋面依旧选用经典的白红配色;但在鞋舌与鞋跟处增添了细节设计1421458c8296dc5cf62b7fd66f66e84e,用“90”包裹着“回力”MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jKuyuKmi,突出品牌历史的同时ITVjMTc3ZTc3NGUxY2I=,也具备了一定的设计感;中底采用回力特有的“祥云”设计QDVjMTc3ZTc3NGUxZTc=,虽然本格认为更像“木纹”3ebb9657e242376e96b9dea489d10d08760055c8,但这并不妨碍美观;底部是一如既往的橡胶材质99ce295a08588417657401e6575b2b60,虽然脚感并不是特别好e9def1e3fed2e4b90a11530b84bc4e84c09ee061,但也可以满足日常通勤IzVjMTc3ZTc3NGU3Mjk=KjVjMTc3ZTc3NGQ4MDg=

·  飞跃DF/-510 网球鞋aa4b45451eea0143b103591597af5c8c

参考价格:¥89RMBfca57d241e62707c08caf60132e42b123db0648f

24cabfb180b8c50b5f58cbc8d82349ea

673359f9420bbcfff736599b3c16b1b5

30462d5aea23339d4670435184a7b0da

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鲁迅曾经说过:“世上本无路JDVjMTc3ZTc3NGUyYTk=,只是走的人多了JTVjMTc3ZTc3NGUyYzE=,也就成了路afe41a4c52c05c2c0e0ac9d4bb6c08ea1b96c79d。”同样的道理cd0b44a22e68929b0b40ab39bebe19a6,也许现在并没有所谓的“赤呐咔叽”(China Casual) 概念XjVjMTc3ZTc3NGUyZjA=,但本格相信MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6jKy9y7Gi,当有一天穿国潮的人多了MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qhd6E3MfQgrCVYb6HhKq9yKGi,便会形成吧QDVjMTc3ZTc3NGU3N2I=ITVjMTc3ZTc3NGQ4YzY=

d57c9ca83c76c51e7762abc002f28f6d

ENDNWMxNzdlNzc0ZDhmYg==

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGe9zrmi


MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9jtCDtsaXjoqVZLJ6iGiwtb2i

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